Last reported position

The last reported position of our intrepid adventurers, on Sat Dec 14 2019 10:35:05 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) was:
Latitude: -34.1029271
Longitude: 18.4668429
Western Cape, South Africa
Full route map: https://coordinates-240806.appspot.com/map/

Last reported position

The last reported position of our intrepid adventurers, on Sun Oct 27 2019 23:05:59 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) was:
Latitude: -33.9269262
Longitude: 18.4093327
Western Cape, South Africa
Full route map: https://coordinates-240806.appspot.com/map/

Last reported position

The last reported position of our intrepid adventurers, on Wed Oct 23 2019 20:00:26 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) was:
Latitude: 48.4259873
Longitude: -123.4134463
British Columbia, Canada
Full route map: https://coordinates-240806.appspot.com/map/

Flying low

The last month has flown by, literally.

Having given up on camping (too cold!), and unable to go South (thanks Immigration, Refugees and Citizenship Canada. Months, and still no PR card!), we headed East inflicting terror (pre-schooler and baby) all the way.

We've been reminding people in airplanes and airports everywhere, that if the choice is a high birthrate or more immigrants, we're all better off opting for more immigrants. I'm sure we scored some votes for the Liberals in the recent election.

Halifax was cute. Cute downtown. Cute museums. Horrible drivers. West coast pedestrians beware, you will be mowed down.

Amazing friends hosted us. Every tantrum, every midnight crying baby, every moist mysterious goopy residue, met with smiles and amazing home cooked meals. All in exchange for our traveling contraceptive. We may have overstayed our welcome...

Then to Ottawa. Nothing to say about Ottawa. It's Ottawa. But it has done grandparents. Babysitters! O.m.g. Freedom! What to do! So much freedom. We spent our time on administration, going to Walmart and Superstore. Sad life of parents.

Last reported position

The last reported position of our intrepid adventurers, on Wed Oct 16 2019 22:38:30 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) was:
Latitude: 45.3330527
Longitude: -75.7637468
Ontario, Canada
Full route map: https://coordinates-240806.appspot.com/map/

Eastern Canada

So what do you do when it's too cold to camp, and you can't go South?

You go to Halifax of course! Visiting friends and family and hoping for my travel documents to come...

Last reported position

The last reported position of our intrepid adventurers, on Sun Oct 06 2019 07:08:39 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) was:
Latitude: 44.654047
Longitude: -63.6096492
Nova Scotia, Canada
Full route map: https://coordinates-240806.appspot.com/map

Game over?

We were supposed to be somewhere warm right now.

Instead. Limbo. Homeless in Saanish as we await news about my Permanent Residence card.

Last reported position

The last reported position of our intrepid adventurers, on Fri Sep 20 2019 04:02:08 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) was:
Latitude: 49.2624748
Longitude: -123.1460508
British Columbia, Canada
Full route map: https://whereami-167313.appspot.com/

Last reported position

The last reported position of our intrepid adventurers, on Wed Sep 18 2019 05:16:00 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) was:
Latitude: 50.1139234
Longitude: -122.9554957
British Columbia, Canada
Full route map: https://whereami-167313.appspot.com/

Too cold

When 'Canada's Hot Spot' is too cold, it's time to admit defeat. We're done camping.

Went through Lillooet today. Why is it 20 but feels like below 10?

Pockets of 'heat'

Chasing pockets of heat. Folly.

We escaped the wet of the Cariboo plateau, but not quite yet the cold.

Camping next to yet another Provincial park that hugs a noisy highway, Marble Canyon. Last night thermometer read 20, but it lies. After altitude, cloud cover stealing the sun, wind chill and canyon shadows are added in, it feels colder than a wet coastal 16. This morning, cloudy and windy, but it's the best we'll get.

After this, back into the wet towards Vancouver.

No clear purpose in the interior

We're struggling to find a new groove that works for us in this part of the interior, this time of the year.

The day's are getting shorter, cooler and wetter. Things to do and see are getting further apart. The recreation sites, and campgrounds in general here attract a different kind of human being. Our cadence doesn't quite work anymore.

We were aiming for Ghost Lake, but when we got there, the rec site had been taken over by a gun touting, booze drinking, camouflaged atv driving kind of Canadian that seems to rule this part of BC. We're seeing too much of its kind for our liking of late.

Our attempt to get away from the hustle of the highways has not quite worked the way we had hoped.

Wells was a surprisingly nice town with art, theatre and good food. Barkerville was not quite as 'Disney' as we feared, but we gave the actors in period costume a skip and sneaked in after hours regardless. There was some hiking to be had, but weather and time was against us, and we instead spent the day driving. The charming little strolls in the woods we have become accustomed to, do not exist here.

Cariboo. Boo.

Our original plans are being thrown into disarray by 'Immigration, Refugees and Citizenship Canada'. I may not be able to leave Canada. We were planning on heading somewhere warm and dry come September/October. Our adventure may soon be at an end.

Clear skies

What we've been awaiting for days. Rain gone, clear skies, fullish moon. It also happens to be -2.  Brrrr....🥶

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Last reported position

The last reported position of our intrepid adventurers, on Mon Sep 16 2019 01:58:55 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) was:
Latitude: 51.397418
Longitude: -121.2588039
British Columbia, Canada
Full route map: https://whereami-167313.appspot.com/

Highway 16

We've been spoiled.

For a long time, we've been hopping from one quant little town to another. On the way, we've been staying at a variety of idyllic 'rec sites' and Provincial Parks. I can't even remember a rec site that wasn't somewhere stunning. No more.

Things started changing once we hit Prince Rupert. You start feeling the rat race. The long arm of Vancouver as it stretches North then East along the highways. The highway is busy. Not city busy. It's all relative. But suddenly we have to contend with a constant stream of freight trucks. The Provincial camp sites often hug the highway with unpleasant noisy proximity.

Terrace was a great surprise. Smithers also. Nice towns, nice surroundings, nice people. Lots to do and see. Then things start going South. I'm not going to name any names here.... you know who you are, you pointless ugly little towns that exist only to slow down highway traffic!

Some gems. Vanderhoof aquatic centre, sweet. Burns Lake mountain biking, I'll be back! The rest. No thanks.

Last reported position

The last reported position of our intrepid adventurers, on Wed Sep 11 2019 16:22:16 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) was:
Latitude: 53.7540834
Longitude: -122.5073091
British Columbia, Canada
Full route map: https://whereami-167313.appspot.com/

Last reported position

The last reported position of our intrepid adventurers, on Mon Sep 09 2019 02:26:52 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) was:
Latitude: 53.9134953
Longitude: -122.7503543
British Columbia, Canada
Full route map: https://whereami-167313.appspot.com/

Last reported position

The last reported position of our intrepid adventurers, on Sun Sep 08 2019 04:54:51 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) was:
Latitude: 54.241365
Longitude: -125.6987478
British Columbia, Canada
Full route map: https://whereami-167313.appspot.com/

Northern limit

We've hit our Northern limit.

Northern B.C.; 'The North'; seems very remote when you're in Victoria. The reality of being here feels quite different.

Nothing has really felt remote thus far. Always close to fast internet, laundromat services and shops that sell humus and quinoa.

Looking at the map confirms the sense that we're nowhere close to remote. Highways everywhere. We're only halfway up B.C; there's an entire territory above us.

We're moving much faster than usual now that we're in a fast lane. We want to get some warmer weather down South while it's available.

Last reported position

The last reported position of our intrepid adventurers, on Fri Sep 06 2019 01:41:48 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) was:
Latitude: 54.7846667
Longitude: -127.1499579
British Columbia, Canada
Full route map: https://whereami-167313.appspot.com/

Last reported position

The last reported position of our intrepid adventurers, on Thu Sep 05 2019 06:09:54 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) was:
Latitude: 55.1975584
Longitude: -127.6858325
British Columbia, Canada
Full route map: https://whereami-167313.appspot.com/

Last reported position

The last reported position of our intrepid adventurers, on Wed Sep 04 2019 04:58:36 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) was:
Latitude: 54.5979809
Longitude: -128.3842492
British Columbia, Canada
Full route map: https://whereami-167313.appspot.com/

Lava

We've been in the Nisga Memorial Lava Bed Park for a few days now.

It's a very striking landscape. The lava flows and ash beds from the late 1700's make for some welcome diversity and beautiful scenery.

The history here is  another repeat of what we've found all over B.C. Large stable settlements ravaged by disease, and a few helpings of oppression and cultural genocide. 30000 people, whittled down to 700 disease survivors who are then oppressed and their families torn asunder. The volcanic eruption that killed 2000 people here is a comparatively tame disaater in comparison with the arrival of Europeans. Not a history to be proud of.

The leaves are falling at an ever increasing rate. It's warmer than Haida Gwaii, but winter is coming.

Our visit here has been very nice, except for the generators and the music....

Last reported position

The last reported position of our intrepid adventurers, on Wed Aug 28 2019 03:59:43 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) was:
Latitude: 54.5177418
Longitude: -128.5749517
British Columbia, Canada
Full route map: https://whereami-167313.appspot.com/

Old growth, where are you?

It's been a continuous quest for the elusive patch of majestic old growth forest. The remaining patches are tiny and scattered. This country who makes so much song and dance of sustainability has very quickly and neatly done away with almost all of its old growth.

Last reported position

The last reported position of our intrepid adventurers, on Tue Aug 27 2019 03:35:02 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) was:
Latitude: 54.2409867
Longitude: -130.1326121
British Columbia, Canada
Full route map: https://whereami-167313.appspot.com/

Bye bye Haida Gwaii

Back to the mainland.

Goodbye Haida Gwaii

After having rescheduled this ferry 4 times over and taken our sweeet time on these amazing (and amazingly wet) islands, we are finally on our way to the mainland. Fairwell Haida Gwaii and all your magical beaches, rivers and forests! 

     

                

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Last reported position

The last reported position of our intrepid adventurers, on Mon Aug 26 2019 04:06:19 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) was:
Latitude: 53.2617565
Longitude: -132.2129171
British Columbia, Canada
Full route map: https://whereami-167313.appspot.com/

Breakfast chaos

When your child is so loud that even the cook comes out to quiet things down. Serendipitously caught on timer 😅  

Vertigo

Written in the morning:

The day's are blurring together here on Haida Gwaii.

What passes for summer here is a cycle of sunshine and wind, followed by cold and cloudy, followed by rainshowers and drizzle. As I write this, it's cold and cloudy. Rain later today then?

Rain isn't the only thing on the way. The trees have vertigo. Leaves are starting to fall.

The next day:

Holy cow! Rainstorm!

The cycle might be broken. Headed to town (Sandspit) today since there's not much to do during a storm. The prediction is rain for the next week. Our last week on Haida Gwaii is set to be a wet one.

We're going to try the restaurant in town, then head back to our stormy wet campsite at Grey Bay.

Last reported position

The last reported position of our intrepid adventurers, on Tue Aug 20 2019 19:00:00 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) was:
Latitude: 53.126313
Longitude: -131.706962
British Columbia, Canada
Full route map: https://whereami-167313.appspot.com/

Out of propane

Finally got to check out the forestry roads and beaches west of Charlotte till our stay was cut short by a propane outage. That slow cooked deer stew was worth it though :)

Last reported position

The last reported position of our intrepid adventurers, on Wed Aug 14 2019 05:20:00 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) was:
Latitude: 53.2507599
Longitude: -132.1177731
British Columbia, Canada
Full route map: https://whereami-167313.appspot.com/

River adventure

Rowed down the largest river in Haida Gwaii,

Yakoun River, with my trusty right-hand man in this pleasure craft: 7km and 5 hrs to make it to the estuary. Thanks to a great support team (Sybrand and Rab) who met us for picnics along the way.

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Cargo

Before we started our trip, things were pretty crazy. Newborn and pre-schooler crazy. It's the kind of space where you can't complete a thought, never mind a conversation.

Somehow, we moved our house into a container and got onto the road. We packed too much and too little.

We have two tents. A ground tent, and a roof top tent. The theory being that we don't want to miss out on walk in sites, and if we decide to stay in one place for a while, we can plop down the ground tent. Mistake. Just more clutter in the car!

Our roof to tent is a 3 person tent. We're four people. The theory being one of us is a tiny person. Mistake. A breast feeding mom and baby take up all the space. Where does that leave Orion and I?

We visited the post office this week. Sent back 19kg of excess junk we can live without. Adina might be able to use the front seat now!

Last reported position

The last reported position of our intrepid adventurers, on Wed Aug 07 2019 05:59:17 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) was:
Latitude: 53.6674614
Longitude: -132.1992518
British Columbia, Canada
Full route map: https://whereami-167313.appspot.com/

Agate Beach, Pure Lake (cold and clammy, warm and sunny)

After spending three nights at Agate Beach, we assumed that the whole of Haida Gwaii had been enveloped by a cold wet and windy storm. Ski socks, winter fleece, rain jackets.

Agate Beach is a beautiful place. Tow hill rises dramatically above the beach. The top gives panoramic views of old growth forest and some of the longest sandy beaches I've seen in Canada. Walks in the old growth offer some respite from the unrelenting wind. I dread what it must be like in bad weather.

A few minutes out, and we realize it's entirely localized. 30km away, at Pure Lake we find sunshine, t-shirt weather and swimmable water.

Harsh (loonie showers and pit toilets)

Canada is a harsh environment, compared to Southern Africa. Mosquitoes, black flies, bears, the cold and primitive camping.

The ancient Aztecs invented flush toilets 7300 b.c.e. and never looked back, but yet in Canada, the pit toilet rules. It's like they don't know any better here. Canada has a robotic space arm that goes around the earth multiple times a day, but flush toilets seem to be out of reach.

Then there are the showers. Now, I'm all for short showers. I've lived with water restrictions. Hell, it's been more than a week since I last showered. I appreciate that there's never a queue for the shower. I'm even ok with the whole loonie a minute thing. (That's 1$, they call a dollar a loonie here. It's got a picture of a bird (a loon) on. So it's called a loonie. Canadians can be cute.)

What I encountered in Masset, was a most evil shower. A 4$, 4 minute shower. Pure evil. You waste a minute getting the temperature right. Quickly soap up and quickly wash. Now. Hold on. I want to be thorough. Do I have time to really get all the grit and sweat off, or will I be left standing a soap covered fool? Fear of soapy foolishness wins out, and a stand there like a fool while money washes over me. Slightly cleaner, slightly more angry.

Namibia, 5 star car camping.

South Africa 3 stars.

Canada. 1/2 star.

Fresh fish: Sandy’s Seafood Shack

This is the only place where FRESH (not freshly thawed) fish and chips is to be had in all our travels on the islands and coast so far, in Old Massett on Haida Gwaii. Very tasty indeed! 

What happened to any and all other fresh fish restaurants elsewhere? The government had introduced such strict regulations on fish processing that smaller/rural communities cannot afford the facilities and are forced to send all commercially caught fish down to Vancouver for processing. Once processed, fish is sent all over the province for sale. The result is that everywhere on the coast and islands it is impossible to (legally) buy fresh fish or have a fresh fish meal in a restaurant. Canada killed fresh and local fish.

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Last reported position

The last reported position of our intrepid adventurers, on Fri Aug 02 2019 03:26:13 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) was:
Latitude: 54.0131817
Longitude: -132.1290799
British Columbia, Canada
Full route map: https://whereami-167313.appspot.com/

Last reported position

The last reported position of our intrepid adventurers, on Tue Jul 30 2019 03:21:14 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) was:
Latitude: 53.4060076
Longitude: -131.9185956
British Columbia, Canada
Full route map: https://whereami-167313.appspot.com/

Surprise Lagoon

Make a hasty stop for a diaper change. Discovered a magic lagoon campsite. We'll be staying here tonight 😎

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Sick and tired

It's hard work camping, taking care of a pre schooler, taking care of a mom taking care of a baby and catching ferries that you have to queue for at silly early times.

I think it all caught up with me. The intense vomit inducing ferry ride from Prince Rupert to Haida was the final straw.

I've always done badly when combining sea going vessels with waves. I was actually quite proud of myself for not being as badly affected as some. Finally though, I succumbed. Maybe due to carrying bags of vomit from Orion and Adina to the trash. Maybe because of the splatter. Maybe, probably, just the waves.

We headed to a rec site, Kagan Bay just outside Queen Charlotte, where a cold virus started wreaking havoc on my weakened body.

If you have kids, and you've ever been ill, you'll know that you don't get to go lie down and get better. No. Children are misery amplifiers. Well. Maybe someone out there has a 4 year old with empathy. I don't.

Many plus sides as I recover from my cold. The weather hasn't been completely horrible, Kagan Bay is beautiful. We've run into some really nice people. Orion got to play with someone his age all day, which made him very very happy.

My clothes don't fit any more. My clothes are too big. They must be stretching.

It's been a week since I last showered.

Rough seas

We were fooled into believing that every sailing voyage with BC Ferries is a pleasant float on the pond. Sailing to Haida Gwaii was rough; very rough seas. Only one of us survived un-sickened. He is a trooper indeed. 

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Prince Rupert - Take 1

A pleasant break at Prudhomme Lake outside Rupert. Fire, nice camp cooked meal, and Orion's and Rabbity's first theatre movie : the lion king! Why didn't anyone tell us the funky part of town is tucked away by the old harbour? More exploring when we get back. On to Haida Gwaii! 

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To Prince Rupert

When someone is scary rude to you on the ferry and you report them (a baby coughing while nursing is no reason to be swearing under your breath, sir! ) you get upgraded to a private cabin and you discover that if this is a bit like a cruise, perhaps cruising with kids is not such a bad idea. Shall we give it a try in October? 

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Bella Bella/Shearwater

A 4-day layover in Bella Bella to get to Prince Rupert — because clearly no one goes from Bella Coola to Prince Rupert (the BC ferries Chief Steward informed me that there are roads for that — only 8hrs! She couldn't imagine how this may take us weeks camping with kids). So, long story short, arrived in Bella Bella, essentially drove a hiking trail in search of a forestry road tent spot. Decided to haul a fraction of our stuff on the seabus to a "campsite" on Shearwater. 

Thank you to Par and Johan Domeij for inspiring us to do this by sail boat next time (and how silly that we've come to the most amazing archipelago with an inappropriate vehicle!).

Thank you also to Angela and family for going out of their way to accommodate us for a night in Bella Bella. We've been seriously humbled by the generosity these Bella Bellians have showed to complete strangers 🙏

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Last reported position

The last reported position of our intrepid adventurers, on Tue Jul 23 2019 02:09:09 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) was:
Latitude: 54.2408129
Longitude: -130.132671
British Columbia, Canada
Full route map: https://whereami-167313.appspot.com/

Last reported position

The last reported position of our intrepid adventurers, on Mon Jul 22 2019 07:38:10 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) was:
Latitude: 54.2977086
Longitude: -130.3430916
British Columbia, Canada
Full route map: https://whereami-167313.appspot.com/

I love B.C. Ferries!

After a nice long break in the Great Bear Rainforest, we're on our way to Prince Rupert.

The ferries are comfortable and spacious. The views are out of this world. The staff are amazing. Bonus: when a fellow passenger is a psycho child hating @$&!!? crotchety crazy old man, you get upgraded to a private cabin for your pain and suffering.

We have a few days in Prince Rupert before heading to Haida Gwaii. We've seen some amazing things, and met some wonderful people - Haida Gwaii is going to have to work hard to top the last week and a bit.

Bad internet is worse than no internet

Shearwater, on Denny Island has been a surprisingly pleasant stay.

Shearwater is not designed for us. It's designed for people with boats. A campsite exists, but everyone was taken by surprise that someone wanted to use it.

When we arrived we were at a loss as to what we'd do for the next few days, but it soon changed. People on Denny Island and Campbell Island are incredibly friendly. Before we knew it we were getting invited to stay with people, and going on personalized tours with locals.

But man oh man, 1st world problems, the internet and coverage at Shearwater was really bad.

Last reported position

The last reported position of our intrepid adventurers, on Sun Jul 21 2019 06:16:37 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time) was:
Latitude: 52.167063
Longitude: -128.1477862
British Columbia, Canada
Full route map: https://whereami-167313.appspot.com/

Shearwater

We are on an island I did not even know existed until about a week ago. And we are only here because it has a "campsite" and Bella Bella doesn't. It is so small that between the people we met on the ferry to Bella Bella and others on the (free!) seabus over, it feels like we know half the island. The other half helped us get alllll our gear up the hill to our piece of green grass (aka campsite). This place seems to have attracted some interesting cool people from all over the globe. 

Pic: off the seabus with too much stuff.

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