Testing the limits...

We have 40 degree's Celcius heading our way. We'll be dipping in the Orange River for sure.

Nama Karoo

We are now properly in what is called the Nama Karoo. It looks like straight up desert to me.

Sand, dust and diamond mines.

We'll be staying along the banks of the Orange river for a few days, peeking at Namibia on the other side.

Diamonds everywhere!

We've been travelling through a diamond-rich landscape for almost 2 weeks now -- quite a different story from the image of opulence, beauty, prestige and romance that has been built up around this most durable rock. This is what it really looks like: a plethora of mine dumps littering the landscape, dust-hole (sometimes dilapitated) towns established by mining  companies, drudgery of the land and ocean, land grabs from local communities (which have lost their lands and get no benefits from the pilaged riches) and the entrentched poverty they've promoted. How ironic that this is the ultimate symbol of LOVE in our society.  

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Sendelingsdrif

At the Orange River -- Namibia is on the other side and the Richtersveld range in background. This is the pontoon we'll be taking when crossing into Namibia on Sep 5.

Traffic jam.

Ostrich!

Indeed, there was a wild ostrich running for the dry hills...

Richtersveld NP here we are.

On the way to Alexander Bay

After being trapped in Port Nolloth for a few days, we're on the move again m

Zombie child

Missed ideal driving time today. Peppa Pig comes to the rescue.(confession: I love that show too).

Goodbye Springbok

On our way back to the coast! Kleinsee here we come! In McDougall Bay tonight.

Beach life

A much deserved impromptu beach sunset outing after a laptop day. Is this what life next to the beach could be all about? Tomorrow on to Sendelingdrif in Richtersveld National Park. Goodbye coast once again...

Another day in Port Nolloth

Orion and I are spending another day in Port Nolloth while Adina finishes her paper.

Happy Birthday Scumpi!

Today is my grandma's (aka Scumpi) birthday so we went to the beach to get working on a birthday card yesterday. Here it is. 

Maintenance

A two (3?) night luxury stop in McDougalls Bay. Adina needs to finish a paper, I need to fix our mattress, remove splinters from my hands (needle surgery), fix some clothes, post some clutter to Cape Town, maintain my hiking shoes, re-provision etc. etc.

Kleinzee

Fascinating place, felt like a real ghost town on a sunday afternoon. The town (789 residents) is undergoing a transition from a DeBeers mining town to a proclaimed town in its own right. We had lunch at the Golf Club patio -- out of our picnic bag since the club was closed.

Ng 

Kleinzee has seen better days

Nothing happening in this town...

More Goegap

A late afternoon walk. 

Naturalist in the shade

Long shadows. Strong sun. Naturalists to be found in the shade.

Goegap provincial park

Early morn in Goegap outside Springbok. Great time for a walk.

Goegap nature reserve

A hectic day of shopping for provisions, laundry and administration in Springbok 2 days ago.

Yesterday was a recovery day in Goegap. Today, fresh and strong, going for a short hike.

Camping close to Springbok

Spending the night just short of Springbok, tomorrow we head to a town with tarred roads.

Fuel at last

This fill up has been delayed by Hondeklipbaai days. Follow the maze to the pumps and you shall be rewarded. The ATM is running empty though.

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So long Hondeklipbaai

A very unique place amongst the mine dumps.

The end of the road

From this point on, access to the coast is restricted for about 100km. Diamonds.

Hondeklipbaai lives up to it's name

There is a bay. There are dogs. There are rocks. (Hondeklopbaai = Dogrockbay)

There are also some hidden gems. Walking the dusty streets, we met an artist called Apie (Apie means Monkey. He says Abraham is too long and too serious) who was born in Pofadder, but has been living here since the 70's. He's transformed his piece of Namaqua into a beautiful garden, that has spread to adjacent properties and down the streets.

Others here complain the government doesn't allow them to fish. There must be some jobs from the surrounding mines, but probably not much.

There's a stream of 4x4 vehicles coming in and out of the town all day long, from all over the country. They all head towards the harbour where they eject their occupants who proceed to feast on seafood and burgers that all come from somewhere else. There is no food produced here, other than Snoek, which get's shipped somewhere else.

To us Hondeklipbaai is civilization. A hot shower and laundry. (Also, as our shoes have discovered, known as Hondekakbaai).

Kelp or...seals?

This is only a small glimpse at a very large seal colony -- from afar, they look like patches of kelp forest, but make no mistake those are seal fins. They look comfortably cool and wet as opposed to wind-blown dreadfully dry us...

Frog Day

After 2 days of sun and wind this day of fog and moisture was most welcome (only by the more Canadian of us).

Yet another deserted beach.

We're a bit low on petrol. The deep sand is taking it's toll. If you see this entry, it means we didn't run out, and made it to a petrol station.

Miserable weather is tent weather

Orion knows where it's at when the weather is miserable.

The theory of starting our journey in the winter, maybe not entirely sound. Namaqua national park is hot, windy, wet and cold all at the same time.

Having a whale of a time

We've seen more live whales than dead ones, but dead ones are easier to take photo's of.

We found this one close to a seal colony in the Namaqua national park.

Namaqua National Park

Here we are!

West Coast 4x4 route to get here was devoid of cars and infrastructure -- good times. Feels like we've hit civilization again....

Windy windy windy!

This has never happened before. He'd rather stay in the tent and play by himself than deal with the wind outside. He's wise indeed.

1000km

1k travelled thus far. It took us just over two weeks.

We're traveling along the West Coast 4x4 trail.

Free from the sea

Our first meal with mussels harvested 100m from campsite! Yum! (And the very not local quinoa--heh.)

Slowly making our way up the coast.

We saw a Cape Fox. The first time I see a real fox in the wild.

Olifants River Mouth

...is a place I've been wanting to check out for ages. I created a map of the area for a friend's Masters thesis 5 years ago, but haven't seen it for myself until yesterday...

Our campsite for tonight

Definately the most scenic thus far. It's also free. Bonus!

Wild camping

Our first night tenting along the Namaqua coast in what is the most special spot we've stayed in yet.

Mystery solved

We did figure out long before getting here that the "ship parts" were in fact parts of wind turbines, but it's still nice happening upon their destination. Their scale is impressive.

Goodbye Strandfontein

Now don't get confused. There are a few towns named Strandfontein in South Africa. This is the Strandfontein in the Western Cape. Oh boy. Now don't be confused. There are a few towns called Strandfontein in the Western Cape, this is the Strandfontein in the Northern Western Cape.

Goodbye interior, hello coastline

As we bid farewell to the interior for a while, we start a coastal journey beginning where the Olifantsrivier meets the Atlantic Ocean.

The weather prediction says we have cold, wet, windy times ahead after spending two weeks being just cold.

Hello Namaqua West Coast.

Hello Strandfontein. Apparently it's whale season.

Best droewors ever

Lutzville, Namaqualand coast, western cape

Hot pot bread

Our first camp-made pot bread -- fresh out of the fire and made to perfection. Thank you to the Friends of the Liesbeek for gifting us this amazing cast iron pot which so far has produced some amazing stews, a bread and a cake! 

Calvinia Friday Market

Orion very patiently waiting -- extendending the bank card to the cashier-- for the purchase of his early bday present to be completed.

Kuboesberg camping

We're camping in this dry valley not far from Nieuwoudtville on a farm called Kuboesberg.

It's turning into a bit of a drought tour. The Karoo is drier than I've ever seen, the flowers are nowhere to be seen anywhere we've been, locals tell of how lush everything usually is this time of year. 2018 is going to be a tough year if it doesn't rain soon.

Home in Calvinia

Our home in Calvinia was an easy sell for Orion -- with his own wind pump in front. Still not quite as exciting as breaking out the tent for the first time in Orion's memory.  He easily mistakened the tent for a bouncy castle....

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